Holiday weekends are a great time to catch up on things around the house. I spent my Memorial Day Sunday rehabbing a recent acquisition from my favorite store – the Facebook Marketplace.
This gem was listed for just $22 – and since I’ve had my eye on a sideboard/buffet/server for quite some time, I couldn’t pass it up. I went into it with an open mind – I wasn’t totally sure whether I’d be able to sand/stain/reseal or if I’d have to go to the paint route, but for the price, I knew I just HAD to make the jump.
Once we got it home, I could tell that the finish was like a veneer over particle board in some parts. So while I really love leaving wood as wood, I decided to go the paint route just because I don’t think I’d have much success sanding and staining.
I happened to be heading to Home Depot anyway, so I picked up a quart of Rust-Oleum Chalked Ultra Matte Paint in linen white. They also sell the same thing in spray paint, so I grabbed it too thinking it’d be good for the nooks and crannies of the doors with the appliques (more on this later).
The lure of a good chalk paint is that you can usually get around sanding/priming. I think best results for painting anything, even if it says you don’t need to sand and prime, is to sand and prime. But given that this piece won’t actually be a high traffic piece (like kitchen cabinets), I figured I could cut the sanding/priming steps out.
Other materials needed: Drop cloth, roller, paintbrush, and roller pan.
Prep was relatively simple, I removed the drawers and doors, and all hardware. Don’t cut this corner – while it does take a little more time to unscrew and then later reinstall, the final product is so much better than trying to paint around things (particularly hinges). I cleaned everything with a microfiber cloth and some mild surface cleaner just to remove the dust that had gathered in the corners.
I started by rolling the sides and prominent edges of the frame with a small roller. I’d recommend a foam roller because the end texture is a lot smoother, but in this case I just went with what I had on hand which was something similar to this. Eight+ months pregnant I just wanted to get the project done so I really have no standards at this point. Rollers do a great job making larger surfaces really smooth and even.
To edge and paint in the detailed areas of the frame I used my Wooster Shortcut brush. They’re under $6 (which granted, is a little higher than a standard tiny brush), and the quality is superb and leaves no brush strokes. I use this brush for everything!
Once I got the first coat on, I allowed it to dry for 30 minutes and worked on the drawers in the mean time. My original plan was to spray the drawers, but it was raining, so I ended up hand painting them. I did attempt to spray the doors, but the consistency of the spray paint is actually a lot different than the quart of paint – and it started beading off of the doors. I ended up having to go back and hand paint the doors in the end, so I’d recommend saving the money and skipping the spray paint.
The original hardware on this piece had so much character I didn’t even consider swapping it out. It’s heavy and decorative and since I was going white with the paint, I knew I could use some contrast. I decided to spray it with Rust-Oleum oil rubbed bronze, which is a very deep bronze color (almost black). I love this spray paint and have used it in many places around the house.
To spray the hardware, I laid everything out on a scrap piece of cardboard and sprayed one side evenly and allowed to dry for a full 30 minutes. Then I flipped the parts that needed both sides and allowed to dry overnight. Don’t rush this part – this spray paint is particularly tacky and if you try to reinstall the hardware too soon, you’ll find that you need to go back and redo it all together. Otherwise, this is perfect for hardware and really holds up for handles.
After a second coat on the frame, drawers, and doors, I allowed everything to completely dry overnight before reassembling. I reattached the hardware (note: take good BEFORE pictures because hinges can be confusing and pictures WILL help). Some of the applique on the doors was separated from the door itself, so we went back with some caulk to close up any gaps in the frame. This helps give a really polished look to the final product. I used white caulk and didn’t bother to go back and paint over it because it was a perfect match.
I’m seriously crushing on this rehab and am very excited to add this to our dining room. For the work of a few hours and just under $20 in paint, this piece has a fresh new look for years to come!